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Eichler Siding

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Joined: Jul 20 2004

Anyone know where I can get Eichler siding that matches? I'm interested in someone closer to Palo Alto, or San Mateo. Please e-mail directly at tomtommeAThotmailDOTcom

Tomtom

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Joined: Jul 1 2003

In order to get the best answer, you should do an archive search on this topic. I believe the most popular provider is near San Rafael across the GG Bridge, but another source was mentioned by another person. The San Rafael guy, I believe, will deliver for about $70, whether 1 4x8 panel or more panels.
There are recent questions about thickness - 5/8" vs. 3/4", and patterns, and matching the current siding you have. Like all things Eichler, it is seldom that quick answers are available.

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Joined: Jan 29 2004

Send an email to me for info:

siding@fenburt.com

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Joined: Mar 28 2003

If you're talking about the 2" on centers vertical groove siding, you can do what the other guy does. Make your own by starting with 4" on centers T-1-11, and use a router to make grooves in between. You'll want to make a guide by glueing and screwing 2 nylon guides to the base of the router (you can buy an extra base) that will ride in the existing grooves. Use a 3/8" downward swirl or spiral router bit to minimize chipping. I use a 1/2" D-Handle Dewalt router because the trigger switch gives better control to turn it on and off--similar to a circular saw. Most other routers have a little switch in an awkward place, which you don't want to deal with when doing this kind of work. (I bought mine and all the bits and guide material at Woodcraft Supply--not the cheapest place, but they were more knowlegeable than the big warehouse guys)

You can buy the 4" T-1-11 for around $35 a sheet. You have to cut 12 grooves per sheet of plywood, so you might want to think about ordering a few extra bits (about $25 each--don't cheap out--buy the best ones you can get).

It's not for the faint of heart, but can save a lot of bucks. Oh, and wear goggles.

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Joined: Jan 4 2004

Hi Dane,
The only problem with cutting T111 siding is that every new groove will not match the factory cuts. (we've tried everything). The factory uses a dado or stacked sawblade assembly at 4" o.c., and the bottom of the cut has lines running down it, as well as the grooves are slightly rounded. Plus this method will take about 1 hour to mill each sheet with varying results. When you consider that all sources of Eichler Siding charge about $25/sheet to do the Milling, You have to consider if it is worth it to take on this project. Also, I don't recommend using doug fir T111 siding without thouroughly sealing it, and make sure it is painted and maintaned well (every 5-8 years depending on the climate) because this material is most prone to rot and insect damage.

renman

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Joined: Mar 28 2003

Renman,

I agree, but there is no "factory" 2" on centers siding being made that I am aware of. Unless the Eichler siding guy in Novato is doing it differently now (my samples are a year old). he's starting with 4" on centers T 1-11 and adding the extra groove--they do not match the factory grooves. They appear to be done with a router, as the bottom of the grooves are flat and don't have ridges like the factory dado cut gooves. Also the edges are square as opposed to slightly rounded.

I agree about priming and painting--also filling the gaps where the under layers have gaps with a good wood filler, too. T 1-11 is actually one of the most ill concieved materials for exterior siding. You take plywood with a perfectly good solid skin and cut grooves in it!

I'm doing 20 sheets --have the equipment and the time, and I'm also in Sacramento--outside their delivery area. I figure it's worth $35 a sheet to do it myself. Plus I'll round the edges and my alternate grooves will be centered between the 4" grooves.

Sorry, I want that original Eichler fence look--at least on the front of my house. I can't help it--I'm a purist! Check out photos of my house in the Gallery.

Dane Henas

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Joined: Jan 4 2004

Actually, I designed and constructed a jig two manufacture this siding. I lent it to a friend of mine because I don't have time to make the stuff any more. He has made some improvements to increase production speed and accuracy. I sell you a copy of the drawings for $50,000. Or email me and I'l give you his contact info, or I'll tell you an easy method of making a basic jig for about $120, And maybe you can make some siding for the few Eichlers in Sac., or the Streng homes, as we have a crew that works in that area doing installations, and I wind up having to drive from San Mateo to Sac. in the middle of a work day to get the materials to the site.

renman

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Joined: Mar 28 2003

Thank you for your generous offer, but the jig I devised (as described above) works just fine. If anyone else would like a drawing (FREE!) , please e-mail me.

Dane

Ben
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Joined: Aug 12 2004

I've made a jig for my 7 1/4" Skill saw that works very well. Sorry to say the jig was "lost" when one of the helpers I hired finished the remodeling.

Aluminum sheetmetal plate clamped to the bottom of the Skill saw. The plate had a slot cut to allow the saw blade to protrude through.

It also had an approx 18" bar that matched the 4" center groves on standard siding from Home Depot (don't remember what it was).

Bought a dado saw blade (two finish blades on each side and chipper blades inbetween them). Stacked the chipper blades to whatever width grove desired. The dado blade is about 5 inches in dia, so the Skill saw has no problem turning that thing.

Dial in the depth of the cut, then drop the jig's bar into the ajoining grove and cut the new grove. Move over to the next 4" center gover and repeat till the whole sheet is done. Only takes about 15-20 minutes per sheet.

If the beveled top edge is desired, take a router and proper bit to get the results desired.

I did a stack of 4x8 sheets on top of saw horses over the lawn and the saw dust acts like mulch. Didn't run the router and just left them as is, one grove square, next beveled (not many really notice this).

Did this when first moved in and found termite damage, so had to replace a corner section, garage door beam and one garage door.

Filled and primed all the sheets on another set of saw horses, but they were over the drive way in the sun, which sped up that process. Flipped the sheets over onto a 3rd set of saw horses and primed that back sides.

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