Forum HomeCA-Modern ForumsHome Maintenance Hotline › Exterior wood filler that will take stain - atrium beams

Exterior wood filler that will take stain - atrium beams

5 replies [Last post]
Offline
Joined: August 30, 2003

I'm restoring my atrium beams and plan to leave them unpainted, just a clear stain with a slight reddish tint. I've stripped the beams (two applications of stripper to remove at least 3 coats of paint), scraped them, sanded the heck out of them, and am now cleaning the old paint out of the many shallow cracks on the south-facing surfaces (the beams run pretty close to east-west, so the north face get no direct sun and are in much better condition than the other side).

Now I need to find an exterior grade wood filler that is a close match to Douglas Fir and will take a stain. Is there such a thing?

thanks,
Barry Brisco

1959 A. Quincy Jones atrium model in The Highlands, San Mateo http://www.totheweb.com/eichler

Offline
Joined: November 4, 2003

Barry-

My atrium beams are in the same orientation, east west and the south facing sides are full of cracks. If you refer to this link, you see my post about repair advise: http://www.eichlernetwork.com/chatterbox_lounge/viewtopic.php?t=1147

However, my plan is to repaint after I repair. After some attempts by past painters to fill the cracks, whatever is used fails from the constant exposure to the sun. Since I posted those images of my beams, I have manually scraped off all the south facing side paint and scraped out all the filler material that was popping out. It was recommended a while ago that I try to use two products from a company called Abatron. They make a material called Liquidwood and WoodEpox. I have coated the south side with the LiquidWood and started refilling all the long cracks with WoodEpox. Since I had some rot developing in the cracks on the top surfaces of the beam, I poured the LiquidWood into them and brushed applied it around all the areas that are loose and soft.

The LiquidWood is a 2 part epoxy. Pretty easy to use. Mix equal parts A and B together and they will harden. With the good sun we are still enjoying, that helps it cure faster. All the rotted areas are now solid and ready for filling. However, the WoodEpox is not like Bondo, it is epoxy based too and is like dough, literally. Mix equal parts together wearing gloves and knead with your fingers till the two are even in color. Doesn't take long. Because it is like dough, it's a little harder to apply, though I found using a thin putty knife and small portions, I attack the cracks perpendicularly to force it into the cracks and fill along it's length. After a a few days to a week, it's hard and sands well. I am still filling the cracks, started last weekend. I've used it on the front door post where it meets the ground too.

The company sells colors to tint the WoodEpox, so you can get it to match the Doug Fur. I am very impressed with this product so far. They claim the material will create a permanent fix.

If you're interested, check out the website: http://www.abatron.com. I ordered directly from them as they are not sold in Home Depot or other stores. There is a guy in San Mateo that runs a business for high end builders that sells it too. I bought the starter kit, includes LiquidWood, WoodEpox, the solvent for it and a pair of gloves and a mixing stick. BUt I'd buy a box of rubber gloves from the hardware store.

One last thing, the price may scare you away. That starter kit was about $100.00. I think it's enough to do the job, plus other areas. It's not cheap, but after some research, I decided it was the best way to go and so far I have no regrets. Only time will tell how permanent it is.

If you'd like to see my beams, just let me know. I think you're close to me, just up hiway 92, right?

Nelson

Offline
Joined: March 21, 2003

I'll second the Abatron recommendation, very good stuff. I used Wood Epox on the exterior beams supporting a deck I rebuilt two years ago on my Deck House . It's holding up very well indeed. Liquid Wood can be mixed with Wood Epox as a thinner to make it easier to work with but in vertical applications this should be minimized to keep it from sagging. I had no problems staining it.

John Elledge

Offline
Joined: August 30, 2003

Thanks to Nelson and jelledge for your helpful comments and information. Nelson, I looked at the photos of your beams and they are significantly worse than mine!

However, I think you missed the part where I wrote that I am going to be staining my beams and I needed a filler that would take up the stain. The products you refer to are fine if you're going to paint, but not if you are going to stain.

I realize that Eichler beams were painted (generally white, but sometimes other colors like charcoal) but I have a long term plan to strip all the beams in my house and leave them 'au naturel', and I'm starting with the atrium beams. Properly done, these Douglas Fir beams look stunning unpainted. A neighbor of mine has done it and the effect is amazing.

Yesterday I went to my favorite paint store that caters to the trade, a specialty shop, and they recommended Zar Interior/Exterior Wood Patch. It is claimed to take a stain, so I'm going to give it a try. $4/pint.

Thanks,
Barry

1959 A. Quincy Jones atrium model in The Highlands, San Mateo http://www.totheweb.com/eichler

ajm
Offline
Joined: March 24, 2003

I was wondering what type of paint- stripper you used on the beams, and how effective it was?

Thanks,

Andrew

Offline
Joined: November 4, 2003

Barry-

Yep, the cracks on my beam are very long and one is so deep, it goes almost halfway through! I believe that this particualr beam was a piece of wood that was prone to cracking.

Good luck with the Zar product. I'd be curious how it holds up to the weather. The heat from direct sunlight was what did in the fillers in the cracks in my beam.

Nelson

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.