We're in process of buying an Eichler with thinline siding (the grooves are 1 5/8" on center). The pest inspector said the bottom of a couple of the larger exterior walls had dry rot and that they could source new siding for us for $500 a sheet (which of course is nuts).
I found the Nichol's up in Novato and their company Eichler Siding, but I'm wondering if there are any sources closer to Cupertino for the siding, or if anybody has milled the siding onsite themselves. If you have milled it yourself, what material did you choose and why?
It might be worth the extra 30 bucks or so a sheet to just get pre-milled siding from Novato... but I thought I'd ask.
" they could source new siding for us for $500 a sheet"
You're joking, right? A typo?
I, also, will be interested in what new sources there might be in the 3-4 years since I sourced exterior paneling. I ended up getting it from Eichler Siding. Very nice people but, like most replacment elements, the new material is not quite the quality of the old. If you go this route, make sure you follow the instructions to seal all edges.
Apparently you can order either paintable or stainable siding from Jeff Nichols at Eichler Siding. Also note if you are sourcing elsewhere that the original panels are not exactly 4' wide--they are little wider because of the lip that interlocks. (Jeff Nicols' panels are the correct dimensions.) This is probably only an issue if you are replacing panels within a line of panels (which I wouldn't recommend unless it's a seldom seen wall).
I recall that one of the Eichler construction/building specialists that has now left the state did source their panels closer to home. However, the examples of their siding that I saw err'd on the too rough side (whereas the Eichler Siding err's perhaps a little on the too smooth). I"m not sure that there is much difference in price.
Having replaced one atrium wall with new siding, I would look harder at preserving what I already have next time. For instance, I believe dry rot can be handled by treating with boric acid spray (look for Termitepruf in OSH's garden centre) then using Abatron's Liquid Wood and WoodEpox to reconstitute. Worth considering anyway.
Dry rot is a form of decay. You can't fix decayed wood, you have to replace it. Decayed wood may look OK, but when you discover (as I did) that a sharp pencil can be poked through it without breaking the point of the pencil, you understand why you need new siding, not chemicals.
I'm in San Jose and I also need the low profile siding discussed in this thread, but have been dreading the idea of renting a truck and driving to Novato, or paying $100 to have a few panels of it shipped south. I've used Jeff's siding before, and agree that the finish is not the same as the original, but there aren't any other suppliers.
Does anyone know what the surface of Jeff's siding is actually made of? It doesn't feel like wood to me. More like paper.
I have been considering renting one of those flatbeds from Home Depot and making a quick run up to the north bay. Maybe a few of us should get together and split the costs.
I had siding replaced in two areas of my home, and found that a previous owner had put siding over the existing siding on at least two sides of the house, and that Steve's (I think that was his name) siding matched the original, but not the replacement siding (in terms of bead spacing). The atrium siding was not touched, so it matched there, but not on the front of the house.
I have three panels from Steve, and need two more of the same spacing to complete my garage door replacement/refacing project, so I would be interested in going in on a couple panels. I don't have the spacing measurements with me though.
I have also found a salvage place that has original siding if anybody's interested. However, I think I'm going to go with new wood. When I have my order together (probably in the next couple of weeks) I'll let each of you know offline. Thanks for the replies.