I have taken out inappropriate baseboard in my eichler like house. It was
3/4 inch deep, plus quarterround. I'm left with a gap in the wood floor of almost and inch, so we will probably have to fill that.
Since we are going to all this trouble I wondered how difficult it is to get that no-baseboard look? How is it done? Anybody?
I was also planning on doing drywall around windows without trim. I'd like to do this around doors, but I think it is more difficult?
I would like to paint out all trim to match wall colors and have that floating floor look in the end.
All help is greatly appreciated!
I looked into both when I remodeled and all I can say is that it can certainly be done but it is not a common practice. I'm sure you find this to be the case with any type of modern style building work that needs to be done.
I couldn't find anyone who was familiar with how to install a frameless door. The guy at Minton's lumber in Mountain View, CA who is the door expert says he saw some instructions in a Woodworking magazine but had never done it himself. The door molding essentially covers up the shims to make the door square in a traditional installation. In your case, I believe you need to drywall after the frames and doors are installed so that the drywall (or paneling) can be butted up against the door frame exactly. You would need to find someone who can do this wall work for you. I have kids in my house and I'm glad I didn't do it since it's amazing how many little (and big) hands handle the frame of a door. The molding does a better job of protecting this surface that the drywall would.
As far as baseboards, it means your flooring has to be very precise. Again, the baseboards cover up errors in squareness and butting against the floor. Your wall installer would be the one to make sure it mates well with the floor.
Not sure how clear this is but I hope this helps. If you can do it, it certainly makes for a nice look.
Regarding your baseboard, not sure what you mean by 'filling' in the gap around your floor. If you have a wood floor, you NEED to have a gap between the floor and the walls so that your floor can expand/contract during the seasons. Typically this gap is covered by baseboard. You could cover this gap using a plain or symmetric baseboard. Most lumber companies (not the box stores) or flooring supply stores carry a wide variety of baseboards.
Baseboards are not a 'no-no' in Eichlers. Even the original Eichlers had baseboards (small, symmetric, ie reversible baseboards) around the VATile floors. I get that you're trying to get rid of baseboard that you don't think matches the 'modern' aesthetic. Again you can find baseboard and even top-mouldings that are plain and simple. I joke that it's like using 'sans-serif' fonts. No curlicues...
Regarding your windows and doors - I assume your interior is sheetrocked? If yes, then this is just a matter of sheetrock work. It's non-trivial, but doable. It's not clear if you're planning on replacing windows and doors, or simply replacing the 'trim' around the windows and doors.
Any sheetrock contractor should know how to build the corners to make your windows 'frameless'. And with the interior doors, again it's just sheetrock work. The sheetrock would need to be extended to cover part of the door JAMB - and thereby cover the gap around the jamb that is commonly covered with door 'trim'. The part of the jamb that is left exposed is your 'reveal'.
Check out the aluminum products made by Fry Reglet.
They make an aluminum base reveal that requires no baseboard which looks really clean. It basically gives you a 2"-6" reveal option. It allows a finish edge to tape your drywall too. Below the drywall is 2"-6" of aluminum available in a bunch of colors. I've seen this used in art galleries and it looks great. Can give a floating wall look to your home.
If there is s gap between the floor and the Sheetrock or plaster or whatever wall surface, you might want to try a " no coat " cornerbead. Whatever the thickness of the wall is, cut the cornerbead (tablesaw helps) to that thickness on the one side...( of the 90 degree) Use the uncut side and adhere it with constuction adhesive to the bottom of the wall ... Finish the bead with compound as if it were an upright cornerbead... You don't have to take the compound all the way to the floor. The bottom should give you the straight edge you're looking for.