non-standard vanity?
Hi,
I'm in the process of remodeling the master bathroom. The only thing I still haven't decided yet is the vanity. I want to replace the existing vanity cabinet (original I believe), the problem is that the vanity is surrounded by three walls (facing the walk-in closet) and the openning is not a standard width. It is ~47 1/2" , but all the ready-made and semi-custom vanities that I can find are standard 48". So these vanities won't fit in the existing opening, unless I move one of the side walls (no idea how easy it is or how much labor cost it would be). I guess another option is to get custom made cabinet, which is expensive (~3 times of stock made, ~2 times of semi-custom) from bids I got so far. I kinda like to avoid that expense if I can.
I'm curious if you have this problem whille remodeling your bathroom and how you solved the problem.
PS. My eichler is 4 bedrooms, flat roof, altrium model with the multipurpose room adjacent to the kitchen in the center of the house.
PPS. The side wall of the vanity is not load bearing, but has light switches on them.
Depending on how close the drawers or doors on the cabinet get to the edges, maybe there would be a way of sneaking it in, without moving the wall:
- get a cabinet guy to shave a 1/4" off each side of the cabinet, or otherwise modify it -this has got to be cheaper than a whole new cabinet
- maybe you could somehow inset it -either 1/4" into each wall or 1/2" on one side? -this trades off custom cabinet cost for wacky mods to the cabinet (maybe cutouts to fit around the studs or something?) that would hopefully be hidden once the walls are finished.
Heck, with custom being 3X stock, you could experiment with a couple of standard cabinets and still come out ahead :)
Look at the ends of the stock cabinets. Usually there is about 1/4" of front and and back protruding past the sides. This can be shaved off ("scribed") to make a cabinet fit an uneven wall. There may be enough to play with for your problem. If funds are tight, you could also build an open shelf and tile it.
We were faced with a similar issue.
Our solution was to cutaway enough sheetrock to slide the cabinet in. We measure carefully first to ensure drawers would still open easily.
Then we had the sheetrock guy retape smoothly. Similar adjustments made to get the countertop/integral sink in. I think the overall sheetrock cost was around $150, labor included.
It worked very well. I did something similar in our old house that also worked fine.
S
We were faced with a similar issue.
Our solution was to cutaway enough sheetrock to slide the cabinet in. We measure carefully first to ensure drawers would still open easily.
Then we had the sheetrock guy retape smoothly. Similar adjustments made to get the countertop/integral sink in. I think the overall sheetrock cost was around $150, labor included.
It worked very well. I did something similar in our old house that also worked fine.
S
Hi,
We just removed the wall and moved the shower to the other side :) This was more expensive but makes the bathroom a lot bigger and more comfortable.
You also need a fan and a pocket door but maybe that is another thread...
Cheers,
-- Ralph
we found that two standard size vanities butted together side by side fit.
We also moved the sink off to one side, so the plumbing was a bit tricky, but done.
Looks fine and only notice if you look REALLY close that there are two vanities side by side.
Of course the same brand, facing, draw pulls, and finish so they do match.
One piece cultured marbel top, which includes sink. Clam shell or "dutch D" is what they called the sink shape. Larger dia than true ovel or round, and has a flat section at the edge.
Splash on three sides and the full width mirror (think around +60 inches wide) sitting on top of the rear splash shield. Hint on the mirror grab handles rented. Have the two with them opposiing...as in one handle horizontal and the other vertical so that you can man-handle it. Don't ask how I know this... :)
Bought the vanities at Lowes, but HomeDepot has similar, just not the selection sweetie liked.
Found the new plastic drain components really neat. Much easier than old metal and rubber gasket. Also found that the plastic doesn't plug up from hair/etc as easily. Still does, but takes much longer.
On the wall drain stub, don't use the rubber fitting with the clamp. Band aid at best. Best to dig out the leaded section that is most likely rotted out. Then use a close nipple which has the fitting end for the new plastic piping.
