GFI outlet question
Technically, this question is not Eichler specific. but...
One of our bathrooms has 2 outlets - one is GFI, and one is not. As
it turns out, the non-GFI outlet is actually controlled by the GFI
outlet. That is:
- If I push the "test" button on the GFI outlet, then the non-GFI
outlet shuts off. Push reset, and it comes back on.
- Similarly, if I plug my GFI circuit tester into the non-GFI outlet,
and press the GFI test button (on the circuit tester) it trips the
"test" button on the GFI outlet.
We're in the process of bathroom remodeling, and my contractor has
told us that this outlet configuration satisfies the electrical code
requiring GFI outlets in bathrooms - i.e. the non-GFI outlet doesn't
need to physically be a GFI outlet, with its own "test"/"reset"
buttons. Does anyone know if this is correct?
There are are some other electrical aspects of our bathroom that are
*not* up to code (e.g. the GFI outlets are not on their own dedicated
20-amp circuit); however, the City of Palo Alto is not requiring us to
fix that (because we're not actually touching anything electrical in
our remodel). The GFI issue is coming up because they are basically
saying, "Even though, we can't force you to fix any electrical issues,
the GFI issue is simple enough that we want you to fix it..." And
there's always the issue of appearance if we sold the house
(i.e. someone might think - "They have a non-GFI outlet in the
bathroom, what else is wrong...).
thanks
Disclaimer: I am not a contractor and certainly not an electrical contractor.
From my reading of the National Electrical Code it is my understanding that the setup you describe is accepted practice: A standard receptacle can be wired as a slave to a GFI receptacle. In fact the house we bought new in 1991 had bathrooms wired that way, so it passed code in that jurisdiction at that time.
Which brings up another point, many jurisdictions have variations on standard building codes. You should contact your local building and safety department for the codes rules in your area.
Finally, there is usually a number of stickers that indicate that a receptacle is controlled by a GFI outlet that comes in the box with the GFI outlet. You can put those on the other outlets the GFI controls to let people know that they are also GFI protected.
My caveats are the same as Tod's.
I think you setup is OK.
GFCI receptacles come with instructions to daisy chain other receptacles to be protected by one device - - the instructions advise how to locate the incoming "source" wire, and then daisy chain to the next receptacle. In the GFCI receptacle, there is a sticker over the terminals where you daisy chain FROM, to the next receptacle to be protected. (In you insert the source wires into these terminals, there is no GFCI protection.)
At this point, I begin to stray from any working knowledge. With the next receptacle, I think you can wire in parallel again, which is the normal wiring scheme (in parallel, one bad receptacle will not affect the good ones).
When in doubt, you can just install a GFCI in every box you think it's needed (Home Despot sells them at $28/3 or about $10 each). The biggest problem I encountered in replacing receptacles is with screws that have ripped apart the threading in the plastic box, and you either have use larger screws or expoxy to provide new body.
Comment on Palo Alto's Code.
I don't think any house built before 1980 would meet the code of separate 20-amp circuits.
Our 4BR & 2B are served by 2, 15-amp circuits (these circuits also serve garage & entrance lights). . . . incredibly ridiculous of Eichler in 1972 to provide this level of electrical service for our house. I stock up on 1600w hair dryers because the 1875w ones will pop the breaker on the 15-a circuit with the bath lights (200w) and/or BR TV on the same time.
When I tried to upgrade the main panel to 200-amp (from 100-amp) service for a re-model, and bring additional circuits via side conduits, the contractor said PG&E (in Sunnyvale) requires me to also upgrade the INCOMING feeder cable from the street - - - WHAT?? I was prepared to spend about $2,000 for a main panel, but not dig up the street for a new feeder cable (potentially, it could be 3 houses away) - - well I stayed with the original 100-amp panel (w/ new breakers), but converted electric dryer to gas to give me capacity for a 1-zone mini-splir A/C (the dryer went dead when this was happening so I needed a new one anyway).
So for me, separate circuits were out of the question.
We have 3 15amp circuits for 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living area and washer and dryer (gas). There is 1 20amp circuit for the kitchen.
I know perfectly well that we don't have a 20amp dedicated circuit for GFI outlets in either bathroom - I only mentioned that to contrast what Palo Alto is/isn't requiring us to do up to code. In general, they are reasonable - as long as you are not making anything worse, they aren't going to make you upgrade your main panel every time you screw in a lightbulb (the only issue is that some of the inspectors are pickier than the people at the main office, then you have to argue every time an inspector comes out...). Yes, it would be very nice if everything electrical was up to code.
As far as having to dig in the ground, move to Palo Alto - our electricity still comes from ugly polls - a lot simpler if you are upgrading to higher amperage :wink:
Would like to move to PA, but can't afford the pricetag. In PA, you can send your kids to middle & high school, but here where we get Santa Clara schools, there is a mean bunch from San Jose at the high school and some interesting students at the middle school. At least, our electrical service is underground, and I can hear how busy 280 is by the sound traveling a mile away.
